On the southern slopes of Mount Lycabettus, Kolonaki is the polished, residential face of central Athens. The name means “little column,” after a small ancient column that still stands in Kolonaki Square, around which the neighbourhood grew. Today it is neoclassical townhouses, galleries, boutiques and cafés — and Voukourestiou Street, where the international houses keep their Athens addresses alongside Greek jewellers.
Coffee here is slow and strong, and refuses to be hurried.
The quarter's real luxury is its museums, strung within an easy walk of one another. Between two of them and a good café, Kolonaki will absorb a whole civilised afternoon — and then Lycabettus is waiting.
Go up Lycabettus late in the day if you can: the city spreads to the sea, the Acropolis sits below you for once, and the descent delivers you back to the café tables just as the evening starts. Ask us before you go and we'll point you to the corner of the quarter that suits your afternoon.